For many diners, fine Greek cuisine may hold a different top-of-mind awareness than French or Italian options. Naxos Taverna at Red Rock Casino and Resort in Las Vegas single-handedly shows why that is a mistake.
Naxos Taverna opened earlier this year as a modern homage to the traditional taverns that have sat along the Mediterranean villages in Greece, feeding and entertaining for centuries. The restaurant sits away a bit from the Red Rock casino floor providing a proper break from the lights and sounds of the bustling locals’ favorite. The decor is downright stunning. Exposed beams are covered with bamboo-like slats and then a soft blue light surrounds the back and side walls, which creates a subtle outdoors or coastal feel. In addition to tables and booths, there is a bar area where you can keep an eye on the catches of the day (they’re probably not going anywhere, but you can never be too sure) and a six-seat Chef’s counter that provides a bird’s-eye view of the kitchen. The 13-seat Kallisto Oyster Bar sits outside the entrance of the main restaurant and is often standing room only.
The cocktail and wine lists are expansive. Cocktails are divided into three categories including “Greek Spirit Creations.” One of those is the Greek Sangria with Moschofilero rosé, Metaxa (a Greek brandy), Mastiha (a Greek liqueur) and garnished with fruit. It’s less sweet than your standard sangria and extremely smooth. The Spartan is a crowd favorite in the specialty cocktails, with multiple Ketel One botanicals, grapefruit and rosemary. There’s a splash of Greek white wine in there as well. Another favorite recommended by the staff is the Ya Mas! Described as a Greek margarita, it has Ouzo, which gives the cocktail a touch of anise flavoring. A variety of wines from various regions are available, including some Greek selections that pair perfectly with some of the dishes.
The coursing-style menu features a wide variety of shareable plates, large and small. Other sections are salads, dips & spreads, and steaks & chops grilled over mesquite charcoal and apricot. The center section of the menu features the diverse range of whole fish and seafood that Naxos Taverna has flown in from around the world on a daily basis, as well as the fresh fish and raw selections. Due to the high standards managing partner Chef Mark Andelbradt holds and the difficulty obtaining the freshest seafood available, the favorites in the whole fish section tend to be ordered quickly. “Some days we may only have six or seven Skorpina that come in and when we get them, they go like hotcakes.” People contact Chef Andelbradt at all hours to make sure they can acquire that day’s catch. “I get the ping at five in the morning. (I tell them) I’ve got five of this, they’ll say, ‘Great. I’ll take all five.’” There’s a saying that you should be friends with a mechanic, a lawyer, and a doctor. If you love delicious, fresh fish, maybe add a world-class chef to that list.
The dips and spreads feature familiar favorites like tzatziki and houmous. Also available are selections like the beet-citrus tartar (yes, the play on words is intentional) and the muhammara, a savory and spicy walnut and red bell pepper-based dip. The Greek salad includes a generous chunk of delicious marinated feta cheese, ripe and juicy heirloom and cherry tomatoes and pickled shallots. In the small plates, the kataifi-wrapped prawns provide a spectacular preview of the flavorful seafood options available. They’re served with a Kalamata olive aioli and the large prawns are beautifully covered in the kataifi dough. The variety of housemade bread goes well with any of the dips and spreads but also helps soak up any leftover aioli or dressing from your first couple of courses.
In the larger shared plates, the braised lamb shank kotsi is an ideal choice for fans of osso buco. The lamb meat falls off the bone and into the rich, flavorful chickpea-filled stew. For fans of steak, there’s also a 24-oz, prime bone-in ribeye that is served with horseradish yogurt.
The whole fish are presented head-on and bone-in before being deboned and served with charred lemon and sea salt. They can be prepared (and presented) with a salt bake or grilled over charcoal. The salt bake method steams the fish in its juices, thanks to the salt crust. The salt is discarded and what remains is some of the most delicate, flaky pieces of fish you can imagine. The Lavraki-Loup de Mer is a Mediterranean sea bass (branzino). It has a sublime balance of mildness and flavor, with each bite revealing a harmonious blend of subtle nuance. Other fish offered based on availability are Dover sole, sea bream, Maine lobster and more.
Naxos Taverna has a selection of “Sweet Things” that include baklava cheesecake, homemade frozen yogurt with flavors that include pomegranate and ricotta, and sokolatina, with four different types of chocolate. There are also after-dinner cocktails available.
Naxos Taverna is open Sunday through Thursday, 4 to 10 p.m., and Friday and Saturday, 4 to 11 p.m.
For more information and to make a reservation, visit www.naxosredrock.com.
11011 W. Charleston Blvd.,
Las Vegas, NV 89135
Photo credit: Anthony Mair (food); Clint Jenkins (interiors)